NellMarie Jewelry
All Things jewelry...
Sunday, October 11, 2015
Synthetic and Imitation Gems: What's it all about?
Monday, November 3, 2014
Big Corporate Jewelry vs. Small Family Jewelry: Which one is Revolution?
Where should you go? Taking your family heirlooms and leaving them ANYWHERE can be stressful. Choosing the right place requires doing your homework. Look at reviews. I always trust everyday people's experiences over any advertising or sales ploy. I can not speak to every large corporate jewelry store, but this is how the one I worked for did business.
Large companies do a lot of business. To keep up with the demand, they must hire many jewelers to take care of these repairs. The idea is they have benches to fill and believe anyone can be trained. I have seen people with no bench experience start out as a polisher and move up to a shop manager or district manager. These promotions are not generally based on the quality of repair work, but on the sheer number of repairs completed in a given time-frame. Each jeweler had a formula that took in to account their wage and the number of hours they worked to equal the number of repairs to be completed each day. Time is of the essence in the corporate jewelry world. What does this mean to you?
This means that your jewelry is being run through an assembly line of sorts. It may end up in the hands of an experienced quality jeweler or it may end up with a novice who is still learning or may not have the same pride in their work as others do. A difficult labor intensive job would usually go to the most experienced jeweler, however ring sizings and re-tipping might go to anyone. Either way, no one could spend quality time with any one piece. Did you know that when they "bench test" a new hire they use actual customer's jewelry for the applicant to work on? This is the problem. Many customers want their repair done quickly, but you have to be careful what you wish for. In contrast, many small family businesses do take extra time and care with your piece. They have a smaller turnover rate and therefore you generally see the same sales people that know you and your jewelry. They are able to give you a personal experience. Unfortunately spending quality time with everyone and their specific jewelry needs can put your repair at these smaller venues out longer. Lets do a PROs and CONs list!
I think consumers need to know the whole truth- bigger is not always better. I personally suggest the smaller family owned businesses. Their employees are educated in their field and can make you feel like a person rather than a number. These employees are usually not on commission and can therefore be honest in what choices are best for you. You have to know your jeweler. Whether he or she works in a large or
small business, you must get to know the body of their work. Talk to
your friends, find out who they were happy with. When in a new store,
look in their cases. Find out which pieces were made in-house and
inspect them. Quality jewelers can be hard to find. I believe it takes
a real skill and an attention to detail to be a great jeweler. Once
you find someone with these qualities, follow them wherever they go.
A great business does not make a great jeweler, a great jeweler is what makes a great business.
I will list some local jewelers that are great choices, but for now-
One jewelry store I do NOT recommend is:
Revolution Jewelry Works in Colorado Springs
Thursday, October 23, 2014
Artist vs. the Machine
I have this debate with myself a lot. How can an artist compete with the machine? Computers can do just about anything these days. You can find a pretty picture online and have it printed in a thousand different sizes. You can draw an image and have a 3D printer make the object right before your eyes. Large companies spit out thousands of pieces of jewelry from rings to necklaces to body jewelry all for cents on the dollar. How does an artist compete?
Thursday, March 13, 2014
Silver Education
Cleaning
Taking care of your silver jewelry is also important. As a jeweler, my opinion might vary from what you read in other places. I am a fan of polishing cloths. Always go to the cloth first! Silver tarnishes due to a naturally occurring reaction with sulfur or hydrogen sulfide in the air. I have seen people try to stop this process in a number of creative ways (vacuum sealing their tea sets), but the truth is that it is going to happen no matter what. I like polishing cloths because they don't have harsh chemicals. Some silver cleaners can harm porous gemstones so if you don't know which chemicals hurt which stones then just go to the cloth.
Plating
What is rhodium plating? Rhodium is number 45 on the periodic table of elements and is a hard silvery-white metal. It is a member of the platinum family and is the rarest non-radioactive metal on Earth. It is widely used in the automotive industry as a key component in catalytic converters. In the jewelry industry it is used as a plating over white gold and silver. It makes a great plating because of its hardness and resistance to corrosion.
I rhodium plate all my silver jewelry to keep it from tarnishing. Plating, unfortunately, is like an icing on a cake. It shows any minor imperfection on the "cake" because it is just a very thin layer. All jewelry has to have a perfect clean polish before it can be plated. Also, it does wear off eventually. The rubbing on our clothes, hands, and everything else throughout the day will scratch and wear the plating off. It is not a permanent solution to tarnishing.
Rhodium does not adhere directly to silver. To rhodium plate a silver piece, you have to under plate it first. Under plating is the process of putting a secondary metal over the silver before applying the rhodium. I use nickel or palladium as my under plate, but you can also use copper. Ever notice your costume jewelry turning pink after you've worn it for a while? Copper is a common under plate on most inexpensive white metals. As you wear off the bright white plate on the outside, you'll see the copper plate coming through.
Why Silver?
I work with silver a lot and there are many reasons to choose it. Probably the biggest benefit is the price. You can get a much bigger bang for you buck in silver jewelry. Silver is maintainable. Unlike costume jewelry, silver can be polished, sized, and customized.
Be a smart shopper when it comes to silver. Many big box stores use the same molds for their gold jewelry as they do for silver. This gives you a silver ring that looks like one of those dainty embellished gold rings that sell for so much more, but there is a down side. Silver is a soft metal!! A dainty ring is fine in gold, but in silver it will never survive. I have been repairing jewelry for over ten years and have seen countless rings smashed, cracked, mangled, and broken. This is why all the silver jewelry I make at NellMarie is made to be silver. They have wide, heavy shanks with thick prongs or channels. Make sure the silver jewelry you buy is made to last because it can if you take care of it.
For more information, visit my website at www.nellmarie.com
Monday, October 1, 2012
Pearl Facts
I wanted to take some time to answer some commonly asked questions about pearls.
1. How can I tell if my pearls are real?
There are a few ways to tell. One way to check is to run the pearl along your teeth. Don't bite down on it, just rub it on the front of your tooth. A genuine pearl will feel gritty. It will feel like a little ball of sand across your teeth. An imitation pearl will be smooth. In this same instance, if you want to check your friend's pearl and don't want to be shoving their jewelry in your mouth, there is another way. Rub the pearls on each other. Two genuine pearls will feel gritty against one another.
2. Can I clean my pearl strands?
Many chemicals, including cosmetics, perfumes and perspiration can damage the nacre on pearls. Cultured pearls should be thoroughly cleaned periodically, especially if they are worn often. To help pearls keep their luster, wipe them with a soft cloth after each wearing. To clean pearl strands, wash with a mild soapy water. Some detergents can dull nacre and cause surface pitting so if using a jewelry cleaner, be sure it is pearl-safe. Rinse pearls and lay flat on a towel to dry. Make sure strand is completely dry before wearing or hanging so as not to stretch the silk string.
3. Are cultured pearls genuine pearls?
Yes. A natural pearl is made when a foreign object gets inside a mollusk and irritates the soft tissue. The mollusk will try to reduce the effect of the irritant by coating it with nacre. The nacre is the lustrous part of the pearl that we value. A cultured pearl is a pearl that is the result of human intervention. The irritant in this case is deposited by humans.
4. Why are pearl strands knotted?
Pearl strands should be restrung every year if they are frequently worn. Because pearls rate poor to good in toughness, the constant rubbing together in an unknotted strand can cause damage to the pearls. Knotting pearls is also a safety effect. If the strand breaks, only one or two pearls will be broken loose.
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Cleaning Jewelry...
Diamonds have this magnificent property that allows them not to be scratched, or scuffed, or discolored, or worn out. As long as they are clean, they will be just as beautiful on your 50th wedding anniversary as they are on your first.
TIPS FOR SUCCESS:
1. Don"t wear your rings gardening, rock climbing, playing sports, or any other activity that could or would cause damage to your ring. Diamonds CAN CHIP! Prongs will catch and stones will be lost.
2. If you are not sure what the best way to clean your jewelry is, ask a professional. DO NOT clean your rings with toothpaste. I am not sure who started this idea but it is simply not the right way. Toothpaste can leave a film on your rings. Many brands also have abrasives in them that will not harm your diamonds but could be problematic for other softer stones. The things that usually make rings dirty are oils from our hands, lotions and perfumes. Toothpaste is not intended for breaking down grease and oils.
3. DO NOT boil your rings. I am sorry that this has to be mentioned, but unfortunately there are those of you out there that have tried this. Extreme heat does not necessarily cut the oils out of your rings. Also, extreme temperature changes can be damaging to any colored stone.
4. Careful of the silver cleaners! Many silver cleaners are specific just to silver. They can be very strong and even though they work well in their intended purposes, they should not be used for all jewelry. Many of these cleaners strip not only the oxidation (the black tarnish on silver) but the polish as well leaving you with a matte finished piece that has to be re-polished. Do not use these cleaners on your gold jewelry. In most cases, silver jewelry is better cleaned with a polishing cloth. Always go to the cloth first!
5. Have your jewelry inspected regularly. Most Jewelry stores will tell you every 6 moths is a good time to have your jewelry inspected. This is true for any piece you wear often to everyday. Before you start scrubbing your own jewelry, have a professional check that all your stones are tight.
6. Homemade Jewelry Cleaner:
Combine these ingredients in a small baby food jar and keep it by the sink. Use an old worn out toothbrush (leave the toothpaste in the bathroom:) to do the scrubbing.